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List:       fedora-list
Subject:    Re: Left-hand mouse click sometimes not recognized
From:       Tim via users <users () lists ! fedoraproject ! org>
Date:       2021-07-28 14:39:37
Message-ID: e8143f8cbc85bd01f1cae74a8c22d8fccf6f8fef.camel () yahoo ! com ! au
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On Wed, 2021-07-28 at 12:49 +0100, Paul Smith wrote:
> My surprise is that I bought my mouse not so long ago (less than one
> year).

Unfortunately, with today's build quality, that's no big surprise.

Mice buttons get a lot of clicking.  There used to be an app (I forget
on which OS) that told you how many miles your mouse had moved, and
counted the clicks.

I also wouldn't be surprised about mice dying from static electricity
shocks.  With a plastic mouse being dragged across plastic coated
desktops, etc, it'd be easy to zap the things to death.

The mice with proper microswitches tend to last the best, the switches
are designed for a lot of use with a light press, so the body of the
mouse can be designed to not stress the switch and circuit board.  The
switch will click over before it's hard pressed against the mechanical
stops (inside, it's sprung in a bit of a fancy manner), and it can be
mounted so the mouse's plastic button never presses the switch's button
hard up against the body of the switch (though I've yet to see a mouse
actually designed that way).

The ones with membrane/tactile switches require more effort to press,
so that weakens the solder quicker.  And the mechanical design of them
is generally poor.

A microswitch (just imagine it without the metal lever on top):
https://www.jaycar.com.au/spdt-125v-3a-sub-miniature-micro-switch-with-lever/p/SM1036

A membrane/tactile switch:
https://www.jaycar.com.au/0-7mm-spst-micro-tactile-switch/p/SP0600

Some mice will falsely claim to use microswitches when they've really
used the other type.  Microswitches click over with a ticky click
sound, the others tend to make more of a thud.

When switches and soldering goes bad, it's common to find that you get
one click being mistaken for several, and/or having to press extra hard
to get the button to work.  Mice are supposed to have debouncing
circuitry inside them (it's handled in the hardware of the mouse,
itself), but that's really only meant to deal with a few milliseconds
of switch contact bouncing that a normal switch has.  A bad switch
could exceed it's abilities, and broken soldering almost definitely
would.

The double-click timeout mouse preferences in your computer aren't
really designed to manage switch mechanical debouncing, that's more to
do with dealing with how users press the buttons.

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