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List:       elecraft
Subject:    Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 208, Issue 13
From:       Peter Reinzuch via Elecraft <elecraft () mailman ! qth ! net>
Date:       2021-08-24 22:26:05
Message-ID: 4A1EFA2A-4D9B-4E4C-A295-A68B7BCFCE9F () mac ! com
[Download RAW message or body]

Message 17
How much for the K3 package  ….call me 
760-318-0186

Peter VE7REZ 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 24, 2021, at 3:04 PM, elecraft-request@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> 
> Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> elecraft-request@mailman.qth.net
> 
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> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
> 1. Re: K4 operating manual now available as both .pdf and .html
> (David Gilbert)
> 2. Re: KX2 temperature (Howard Hoyt)
> 3. Re: Reversed K4 Rear Panel Drawing (Bill Steffey NY9H)
> 4. Re: KX2 temperature (Gary Slagel)
> 5. Re: K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] (Michael Kholodov)
> 6. Elecraft CW Net Report (kevin)
> 7. Re: K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] (jerry)
> 8. Re: K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] (Henk de Vries)
> 9. Re: K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] (Mike Kholodov)
> 10. KIO2 and KUSB for K2? (Paul Huff)
> 11. Re: KIO2 and KUSB for K2? (jerry)
> 12. 40 METER NET / 80 METER NET 8-22-21 (Steve Hall)
> 13. Re: KIO2 and KUSB for K2? (Don Wilhelm)
> 14. Re: KIO2 and KUSB for K2? (Paul Huff)
> 15. Any update on KIO3BUPKT_KIO3B Upgrade Kits for the K3 (Bill Wiehe)
> 16. For Sale: KX3 + KXPA100 + PX3 + MH3 (VA7KL)
> 17. For Sale: K3S + KPA500 + KAT500 + P3 + TXSensor + MH2 (VA7KL)
> 18. Ground Wire & Coax (James Bennett)
> 19. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Phil Kane)
> 20. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Jim Brown)
> 21. Re: For Sale: K3S + KPA500 + KAT500 + P3 + TXSensor + MH2 (Dave)
> 22. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (James Bennett)
> 23. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Walter Underwood)
> 24. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Jim Brown)
> 25. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Phil Kane)
> 26. KX3, PX3, KXPA00 for trade or sale. (marvwheeler@nwlink.com)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2021 20:35:28 -0700
> From: David Gilbert <ab7echo@gmail.com>
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4 operating manual now available as both .pdf
> and .html
> Message-ID: <dface4b4-5061-32a2-5e5d-ce6267eb30d2@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> 
> I never understood why Elecraft put out the PDF file as white text on a 
> black background in the first place.? It can't be printed, and if you 
> have to read it online the html version makes more sense.? It just seems 
> lazy to me for them not to have converted it on their end.
> 
> Dave?? AB7E
> 
> 
> 
> On 8/21/2021 7:29 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
> > > NOTE:? The operating manual has a black background
> > 
> > I can make the manual (K4 Built-In Operating Manual, rev C9.pdf) look 
> > the way I want on the screen (black text on a white background with 
> > images rendered in correct colors) in Adobe Reader by selecting:
> > 
> > Edit > Preferences > Accessibility
> > 
> > and then:
> > 
> > select "Replace Document Colors"
> > select "Use High-contrast colors"
> > unselect "Only change the color of black text or line art."
> > unselect "Change the color of line art as well as text."
> > select "High-contrast color combination:" = "Black text on white".
> > 
> > However, although it looks correct on the screen, when I print it it 
> > still comes out with the black background.
> > 
> > I'm just using the free version of Adobe Reader.? Perhaps someone with 
> > a paid-up version can get it to print correctly (print to a printer or 
> > print to another PDF file).
> > 
> > Alan N1AL
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > On 8/5/2021 4:08 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> > > Rev. C9 of the K4 operating manual can be found here:
> > > 
> > > https://elecraft.com/pages/k4-high-performance-direct-sampling-sdr-manuals
> > > 
> > > In addition to the .html version, we're now providing a .pdf, as 
> > > requested.
> > > 
> > > NOTE:? The operating manual has a black background, consistent with 
> > > the color scheme used for all text boxes on the K4's LCD. Obviously, 
> > > printing a hard copy wouldn't be advised, as you would consume the 
> > > entire ink supply at your local Office Depot. It cannot be easily 
> > > converted to a white background given all of the text styles used, so 
> > > this isn't likely to happen in the short term.
> > > 
> > > 73,
> > > Wayne
> > > N6KR
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2021 02:15:30 -0400
> From: Howard Hoyt <hhoyt@mebtel.net>
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 temperature
> Message-ID: <e3302d24-6596-0cb5-f328-cf3ce58ad8cf@mebtel.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> Hi Gary,
> 
> We have been manufacturing the Pro Audio Engineering Kx22 Heatsink kit 
> since 2016:
> 
> https://proaudioeng.com/pae-kx22-heatsink-elecraft-kx2/ 
> <https://proaudioeng.com/pae-kx22-heatsink-elecraft-kx2/>
> 
> The Kx22 provides 200% or more key-down time in transmit and there is 
> more data on the website.? The good news is the do not impact the size 
> of the rig at all.? By this I mean we engineered them to only have fins 
> which protrude only as far as the BNC connector on the right panel where 
> the PA FETs are attached.? Any case the KX2 fit in before it will still 
> fit once the Kx22 is attached.
> 
> We have several distributors around the world which sell them including 
> GEMS in the USA, Lutz Electronics in Switzerland and others.
> 
> Cheers & 73,
> Howie / WA4PSC
> proaudioeng.com
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2021 07:52:03 -0400
> From: Bill Steffey NY9H <ny9h@arrl.net>
> To: Wayne Burdick <n6kr@elecraft.com>,    Elecraft Reflector
> <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Reversed K4 Rear Panel Drawing
> Message-ID: <40d3f0e9-741b-0c31-e02e-8938716684ed@arrl.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> for my K3 I made a reverse upside down? copy from the manual, and placed 
> it on the top cover rear? ...
> 
> it showed a top down drawing so I could reach back and all would be in 
> proper order top to bottom...
> 
> yet to do for my k4,,,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2021 12:45:32 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Gary Slagel <gdslagel@yahoo.com>
> To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>,    Howard
> Hoyt <hhoyt@mebtel.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 temperature
> Message-ID: <1894447140.555085.1629636332637@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> 
> I have trouble with the KX2 keyer malfunctioning when I'm operating with the radio \
> sitting outside in direct sunlight.? It happens after 20 or 30 minutes of steady \
> contest style QSO's on SOTA activations.? I haven't spent any time troubleshooting \
> other then trying to keep it shaded with whatever is handy to droop over it.?? I \
> wonder if the?Pro Audio Engineering Kx22 Heatsink kit would help with that issue? \
> Gary?KT0A ? 
> 
> On Sunday, August 22, 2021, 12:18:20 AM MDT, Howard Hoyt <hhoyt@mebtel.net> wrote:  \
>  
> Hi Gary,
> 
> We have been manufacturing the Pro Audio Engineering Kx22 Heatsink kit 
> since 2016:
> 
> https://proaudioeng.com/pae-kx22-heatsink-elecraft-kx2/ 
> <https://proaudioeng.com/pae-kx22-heatsink-elecraft-kx2/>
> 
> The Kx22 provides 200% or more key-down time in transmit and there is 
> more data on the website.? The good news is the do not impact the size 
> of the rig at all.? By this I mean we engineered them to only have fins 
> which protrude only as far as the BNC connector on the right panel where 
> the PA FETs are attached.? Any case the KX2 fit in before it will still 
> fit once the Kx22 is attached.
> 
> We have several distributors around the world which sell them including 
> GEMS in the USA, Lutz Electronics in Switzerland and others.
> 
> Cheers & 73,
> Howie / WA4PSC
> proaudioeng.com
> 
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to gdslagel@yahoo.com   
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2021 22:45:16 -0400
> From: Michael Kholodov <michkhol@yahoo.com>
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED]
> Message-ID: <4C2DBB50-4890-429F-8A61-24BB3F65560F@yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> If you have the tuning step 10Hz, tune to, say, 7.200.56 and then switch to coarse \
> tuning, the display will show 7.200.5. But this 60Hz offset will still be present. \
> Then no matter how you tune at the coarse setting, you will mistune. To fix that \
> you should always reset the fine tuning offsets to zero before switching to coarse. \
>  It is apparently a bug in the software because the normal expectation would be to \
> reset all fine offsets to zero automatically after switching to coarse tuning.  
> Mike, AB3VN
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2021 20:23:51 -0700
> From: kevin <kevinr@coho.net>
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report
> Message-ID: <235b52fa-ac51-7a1f-b726-9da7bafcb437@coho.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> Good Evening,
> 
> ?? Cross-training is good.? I'm am learning to use a single lever 
> paddle.? However, when I make a mistake with it I get tense, which 
> causes more mistakes.? I tend to miss the dit side when my thumb 
> stiffens up.? Then I remembered my breathing exercises.? They calm me 
> down, take my mind off of the mechanics and back on what I am sending.? 
> Breathing correctly slows things down to establish a rhythm.? So hours 
> on the firing line, trying to hit the X at 600 yards helped me send 
> smoother CW.
> 
> ? Conditions were better than I had expected.? They were close to what 
> Bill, AE6JV experienced last night.? Real world propagation reports beat 
> predictions.? Twenty meters was medium quiet with moderate to weak 
> signals.? Copy was OK because there was not much noise nor was there 
> much QSB.? Forty meters was not like that.? It had QSB and some summer 
> storms.
> 
> ?? The crews fighting all the forest fires from British Columbia down 
> to California are being overworked.? California has the most, and the 
> largest fires.? I am very happy the winds are from offshore.? If they 
> were from any other direction it would be smokey up here.? It has been 
> very nice to breath fresh air this week.? Hopefully some of the rain I 
> am getting will travel East and South.
> 
> 
> ? On 14050.5 kHz at 2200z:
> 
> NO8V - John - MI
> 
> W0CZ - Ken - ND
> 
> K6XK - Roy - IA
> 
> AB9V - Mike - IN
> 
> K4JPN - Steve - GA
> 
> 
> ? On 7047.5 kHz at 0000z:
> 
> K0DTJ - Brian - CA
> 
> K6PJV - Dale - CA
> 
> 
> Until next week 73,
> 
> ?? Kevin.? KD5ONS
> 
> 
> -
> 
> 
> 
> Chris Stevens:?? Today, a belated apology to the much maligned Chicken 
> Little. It turns out you were right - the sky is falling. The National 
> Space Administration informs us that Uncle Sam's Com-Sat 4 satellite is 
> in a rapidly decaying orbit. That's their way of saying a ton of angry 
> space trash is heading back home at fifteen thousand miles an hour. What 
> does that make me think of? Makes me think of a triceratops, innocently 
> munching a palm frond when out of the sky, whammo, a meteor sucker 
> punches old mother Earth. Next thing you know, that triceratops, along 
> with a hundred and seventy-five million years of dinosaur evolution, is 
> nothing but history. To that unsung triceratops and all its kin, here's 
> a song for you...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 07:00:55 -0700
> From: jerry <jerry@tr2.com>
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED]
> Message-ID: <c767a0100e1cf3ed230dc4d8b6baa4f2@tr2.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
> 
> On 2021-08-22 19:45, Michael Kholodov via Elecraft wrote:
> > If you have the tuning step 10Hz, tune to, say, 7.200.56 and then
> > switch to coarse tuning, the display will show 7.200.5. But this 60Hz
> > offset will still be present. Then no matter how you tune at the
> > coarse setting, you will mistune. To fix that you should always reset
> > the fine tuning offsets to zero before switching to coarse.
> > It is apparently a bug in the software because the normal expectation
> 
> OTOH, do you want the frequency to *change* when all you did was to hit 
> the "rate" button? The K2 behaves the same way.  This is one of those UI 
> things where there really is no "right" answer.
> 
> - Jerry KF6VB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 16:13:31 +0200
> From: Henk de Vries <hdv@kpnplanet.nl>
> To: jerry <jerry@tr2.com>, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED]
> Message-ID: <4d45a696-041c-11ec-81f4-005056ab7447@smtp.kpnmail.nl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> No, one would not expect a change when that button is pressed.However as soon as \
> the VFO is moved it would be logical that the frequency is in line with the \
>                 display.So the first "VFO move" should remove the offset.73 \
>                 HenkPA0C
> -------- Oorspronkelijk bericht --------Van: jerry <jerry@tr2.com> Datum: \
> 23-08-2021  16:01  (GMT+01:00) Aan: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Onderwerp: Re: \
> [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] On 2021-08-22 19:45, Michael Kholodov \
> via Elecraft wrote:> If you have the tuning step 10Hz, tune to, say, 7.200.56 and \
> then> switch to coarse tuning, the display will show 7.200.5. But this 60Hz> offset \
> will still be present. Then no matter how you tune at the> coarse setting, you will \
> mistune. To fix that you should always reset> the fine tuning offsets to zero \
> before switching to coarse.> It is apparently a bug in the software because the \
> normal expectationOTOH, do you want the frequency to *change* when all you did was \
> to hit the "rate" button? The K2 behaves the same way.? This is one of those UI \
> things where there really is no "right" answer.??????????????????? - Jerry \
> KF6VB______________________________________________________________Elecraft mailing \
>                 listHome: http://mailman.qth
> .net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htmPost: \
> mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.netThis list hosted by: http://www.qsl.netPlease help \
> support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.htmlMessage delivered to \
> hdv@kpnplanet.nl  
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 16:07:51 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Mike Kholodov <michkhol@yahoo.com>
> To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED]
> Message-ID: <1425626561.661655.1629734871030@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> 
> I second that.
> 
> 73,?
> Mike AB3VN
> 
> On Monday, August 23, 2021, 10:14:29 AM EDT, Henk de Vries <hdv@kpnplanet.nl> \
> wrote:  
> 
> No, one would not expect a change when that button is pressed.However as soon as \
> the VFO is moved it would be logical that the frequency is in line with the \
> display.So the first "VFO move" should remove the offset.73 HenkPA0C 
> -------- Oorspronkelijk bericht --------Van: jerry <jerry@tr2.com> Datum: \
> 23-08-2021? 16:01? (GMT+01:00) Aan: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Onderwerp: Re: \
> [Elecraft] K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] On 2021-08-22 19:45, Michael Kholodov \
> via Elecraft wrote:> If you have the tuning step 10Hz, tune to, say, 7.200.56 and \
> then> switch to coarse tuning, the display will show 7.200.5. But this 60Hz> offset \
> will still be present. Then no matter how you tune at the> coarse setting, you will \
> mistune. To fix that you should always reset> the fine tuning offsets to zero \
> before switching to coarse.> It is apparently a bug in the software because the \
> normal expectationOTOH, do you want the frequency to *change* when all you did was \
> to hit the "rate" button? The K2 behaves the same way.? This is one of those UI \
> things where there really is no "right" answer.??????????????????? - Jerry \
> KF6VB______________________________________________________________Elecraft mailing \
>                 listHome: http://mailman.qth
> .net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htmPost: \
> mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.netThis list hosted by: http://www.qsl.netPlease help \
> support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.htmlMessage delivered to \
> hdv@kpnplanet.nl  ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to michkhol@yahoo.com 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 10
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 13:22:49 -0400
> From: Paul Huff <paul142857@gmail.com>
> To: Elecraft Email List <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2?
> Message-ID: <F76D444B-8958-45EA-AF30-B9E34B18BE2B@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=utf-8
> 
> I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2 but I don?t \
> know very much about computer hardware.  Would the KUSB serial cable that is also \
> sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect the KIO2 to the USB port on my Mac \
> computer?  Or is there something else that would be needed? 
> Thanks and 73,
> 
> Paul - N8XMS
> 100% QRP CW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 11
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 10:46:03 -0700
> From: jerry <jerry@tr2.com>
> To: Paul Huff <paul142857@gmail.com>
> Cc: Elecraft Email List <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2?
> Message-ID: <c32e143e0d9d80ce2e66fb9a1b8378a1@tr2.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
> 
> On 2021-08-23 10:22, Paul Huff wrote:
> > I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2
> > but I don?t know very much about computer hardware.  Would the KUSB
> > serial cable that is also sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect
> > the KIO2 to the USB port on my Mac computer?  Or is there something
> > else that would be needed?
> 
> *** Not sure about the KIO2, but I did peruse the data on the serial
> port included on the KPA100, which is probably the same.  In the case of 
> the KPA100, you MUST use a custom cable - either supplied by Elecraft, 
> or made up with their schematic.  This is because Elecraft
> used "spare" pins on the serial connector for things that have nothing 
> to do with serial communications.
> 
> For serial comm, you connect ONLY pins 2,3 and 5 on the 9-pin serial 
> connector.  pin 2 is TxD ( data from the K2 to the computer ), pin 3 is 
> RxD ( data from the computer to the K2 ), and pin 5 is the 
> common/ground.
> 
> Again, this is specific to the KPA100; I don't know if it applies also 
> to the KIO2, but I suspect that it does.
> 
> - Jerry KF6VB
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 15:00:35 -0400
> From: Steve Hall <99sunset@gmail.com>
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] 40 METER NET / 80 METER NET 8-22-21
> Message-ID:
> <CALdUqNMbHMBH0O1VT6ZDDOr47gFMyigAd9zuye1Yw8YTtX9vrg@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> Thanks to all that assisted with relays.
> 40 METERS 7.280 1900Z
> WM6P STEVE GA K3S NETCONTROL
> W9EJB ED IN K3
> K9NU CARL OH FTDX101D
> K5PD PETER TX K3
> W3SA JOHN NC TS890
> WY3T TIM FL K3S
> W8UAN TIM MI TS-890
> NC0JW JIM CO KX3
> WN3T RICK VA IC7610
> K8IGU BRIAN OHIO TS2000
> KD9QDP RICK IL TS450
> N3RFO LES MD IC7300
> KC3HW JIM PA IC7300
> W2JHH JERRY GA IC7300
> N2TNQ LES NJ K3
> N2DTS BRETT NJ IC705
> 
> 80 METER NET 3.775 0100Z
> WM6P STEVE GA K3S
> K8NU CARL OH FTDX101D
> WY3T TIM FL K3S
> N8SBE DAVE MI K3S
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 13
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 15:25:22 -0400
> From: Don Wilhelm <don@w3fpr.com>
> To: Paul Huff <paul142857@gmail.com>,    Elecraft Email List
> <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2?
> Message-ID: <6f45e80b-f1e3-4de1-f3b5-d0931fe32fb6@w3fpr.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> Paul,
> 
> You must construct the special cable that is specified in the KIO2 
> manual - you can make it a short one if you want.
> That cable has a DE9 connector on the PC end which you can plug into a 
> serial port or into a USB to serial adapter - The KUSB sold by Elecraft 
> is a good choice -- if you choose another USB to serial adapter, make 
> certain it uses the FTDI chipset.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 8/23/2021 1:22 PM, Paul Huff wrote:
> > I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2 but I don?t \
> > know very much about computer hardware.  Would the KUSB serial cable that is also \
> > sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect the KIO2 to the USB port on my Mac \
> > computer?  Or is there something else that would be needed? 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 14
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 15:36:38 -0400
> From: Paul Huff <paul142857@gmail.com>
> To: don@w3fpr.com
> Cc: Elecraft Email List <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 and KUSB for K2?
> Message-ID: <099E0B58-058A-48DE-A982-045F33C33ABF@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=utf-8
> 
> Thanks to the several who replied, and especially to Don for the exact information \
> that I needed. 
> 73,
> 
> Paul - N8XMS
> 100% QRP CW
> 
> 
> 
> > On Aug 23, 2021, at 3:25 PM, Don Wilhelm <don@w3fpr.com> wrote:
> > 
> > Paul,
> > 
> > You must construct the special cable that is specified in the KIO2 manual - you \
> > can make it a short one if you want. That cable has a DE9 connector on the PC end \
> > which you can plug into a serial port or into a USB to serial adapter - The KUSB \
> > sold by Elecraft is a good choice -- if you choose another USB to serial adapter, \
> > make certain it uses the FTDI chipset. 
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> > 
> > On 8/23/2021 1:22 PM, Paul Huff wrote:
> > > I am thinking about adding the KIO2 RS-232 serial interface to my K2 but I \
> > > don?t know very much about computer hardware.  Would the KUSB serial cable that \
> > > is also sold by Elecraft then be needed to connect the KIO2 to the USB port on \
> > > my Mac computer?  Or is there something else that would be needed? 
> > > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 15
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 19:47:01 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Bill Wiehe <bw396ss@yahoo.com>
> To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [Elecraft] Any update on KIO3BUPKT_KIO3B Upgrade Kits for the
> K3
> Message-ID: <741648886.770896.1629748021993@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> 
> Just read July Newsletter and it is great to see that K4?s deliveries are 
> increasing. I was wondering if there is any update on when those of us who 
> place orders for items like the KIO3BUPKT_KIO3B Upgrade Kit for the K3, might 
> expect delivery.
> Thanks,
> Bill - W0BBI
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 16
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 17:26:32 -0700
> From: "VA7KL" <admin@va7kl.com>
> To: <Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [Elecraft] For Sale: KX3 + KXPA100 + PX3 + MH3
> Message-ID: <001001d7987e$b1a17a10$14e46e30$@va7kl.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Fully operational. Located in Vancouver Canada.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 17
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 17:37:55 -0700
> From: "VA7KL" <admin@va7kl.com>
> To: <Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [Elecraft] For Sale: K3S + KPA500 + KAT500 + P3 + TXSensor +
> MH2
> Message-ID: <002f01d79880$48a863f0$d9f92bd0$@va7kl.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Fully operational. Located in Vancouver Canada.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 18
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 19:42:27 -0600
> From: James Bennett <w6jhb@me.com>
> To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax
> Message-ID: <5097F77F-A7A1-470C-8D22-D94639B29ECF@me.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=utf-8
> 
> Got a question for those folks who are knowledgeable in grounding equipment.
> 
> I?m installing a Zerofive flagpole antenna in my backyard. There will be several 8? \
> ground rods at the antenna site. On one side of the house is my shack; on the other \
> side is the home?s utility ground - a Ufer system. I?m also installing a KF7P \
> entrance panel on the exterior wall of the shack. It?ll have several lightening \
> arrestors and a very close-by 8? ground rod. Per N.E.C. specs, I need to tie the \
> ground system at the shack entrance to the house utility ground - probably 150? or \
> so from the coax entrance panel to that Ufer spot. My electrician said that a #4 \
> solid copper wire running from the coax entrance panel to the Ufer point would \
> suffice for keeping the grounds together. Looking at the ARRL book on grounding and \
> bonding, it appears that what I?m going to do is to install a ?perimeter ground.? \
> Not cheap, but the right thing to do. 
> Anyway, the path from that coax entrance panel to the antenna is about 100?. The \
> first 50? of it is the same path that the #4 copper wire would take. Since the \
> ground here in SW Idaho doesn?t freeze up, I?m looking at digging a 4-6? deep \
> trench for these wires. Is there any reason why I cannot place the coax and the #4 \
> copper wire in the same trench? Electrical reasons? RF reasons? 
> Jim / K7TXA
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 19
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 19:05:47 -0700
> From: Phil Kane <k2asp@kanafi.org>
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax
> Message-ID: <24f76a30-4fad-cf6c-efd5-bae065ab6d22@kanafi.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> On 8/23/2021 6:42 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
> 
> > Anyway, the path from that coax entrance panel to the antenna is
> > about 100?. The first 50? of it is the same path that the #4 copper
> > wire would take. Since the ground here in SW Idaho doesn?t freeze up,
> > I?m looking at digging a 4-6? deep trench for these wires. Is there
> > any reason why I cannot place the coax and the #4 copper wire in the
> > same trench? Electrical reasons? RF reasons?
> 
> For safety reasons it is advisable to separate the perimeter ground wire 
> from any "utility" cables, including antenna cables.  I would dig the 
> trench to 12" or more, bury the ground wire, fill the trench halfway, 
> bury the antenna cable, put a layer of some bright-colored heavy plastic 
> over the cable (to identify it if necessary to dig it up again) and fill 
> the rest of the trench.  Put marker stakes around the perimeter.  If you 
> don't want to dig it by hand, rent a Ditch Witch.  Do not forget to call 
> Locating Services (8-1-1) to mark buried utility pipes and lines on your 
> property  before you dig - they are funded by the utilities.
> 
> Stuff I learned from my colleague Tom Croda (SK) who was the national 
> expert on communication site power and grounding.
> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
> 
> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 20
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 20:27:33 -0700
> From: Jim Brown <jim@audiosystemsgroup.com>
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax
> Message-ID:
> <41c92937-c111-f74c-2cc2-f1633b3bf9c0@audiosystemsgroup.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> On 8/23/2021 6:42 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
> > Per N.E.C. specs, I need to tie the ground system at the shack entrance to the \
> > house utility ground - probably 150? or so from the coax entrance panel to that \
> > Ufer spot. 
> 
> There's a bit more to it than that. In essence, more grounds are better 
> and you can have as many as you want, but they must ALL be bonded 
> together. That includes power, telco, CATV, shack, etc.
> 
> My electrician said that a #4 solid copper wire running from the coax 
> entrance panel to the Ufer point would suffice for keeping the grounds 
> together. Looking at the ARRL book on grounding and bonding, it appears 
> that what I?m going to do is to install a ?perimeter ground.?
> 
> Not quite -- it would be a perimeter ground if that #4 (yes, big enough) 
> were connecting driven rods spaced at least 1.5 - 2x their length around 
> the perimeter.
> 
> Do you have the first or second edition of the book? Ward and I worked 
> through some of the issues involved with situations like yours for the 
> second edition.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 21
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 20:28:01 -0700
> From: Dave <dave@nk7z.net>
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] For Sale: K3S + KPA500 + KAT500 + P3 +
> TXSensor + MH2
> Message-ID: <1d5bbfd9-5e98-8edd-dbd1-bff33715a4e1@nk7z.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> Price?
> 
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> https://www.nk7z.net
> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
> 
> On 8/23/21 5:37 PM, VA7KL wrote:
> > Fully operational. Located in Vancouver Canada.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > 
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to dave@nk7z.net
> > 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 22
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 22:45:15 -0600
> From: James Bennett <w6jhb@me.com>
> To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax
> Message-ID: <907EF4D0-2F0C-42ED-9906-880784BB097D@me.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=utf-8
> 
> Folks - thanks for the input! 
> 
> Jim - Not sure what version I?ve got - it doesn?t say, so perhaps it is first \
> edition of the book. However it does have a few paragraphs on perimeter grounding, \
> on pages 4.22 - 4.24. And yes, I had planned on a series of ground rods driven in \
> and connected to the #4 wire along its path to the Ufer connection point.  
> You mentioned ?at least 1.5 - 2x their length" of the ground rod spacing. What \
> would be the minimum spacing between rods? They are, after all, not the easiest \
> things to ?push? into the ground. 
> Luckily we?ve got no Telco line coming into the house, nor CATV - it is all fiber \
> here. 
> Jim / K7TXA
> 
> > On Aug 23, 2021, at 9:27 PM, Jim Brown <jim@audiosystemsgroup.com> wrote:
> > 
> > On 8/23/2021 6:42 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
> > > Per N.E.C. specs, I need to tie the ground system at the shack entrance to the \
> > > house utility ground - probably 150? or so from the coax entrance panel to that \
> > > Ufer spot. 
> > 
> > There's a bit more to it than that. In essence, more grounds are better and you \
> > can have as many as you want, but they must ALL be bonded together. That includes \
> > power, telco, CATV, shack, etc. 
> > My electrician said that a #4 solid copper wire running from the coax entrance \
> > panel to the Ufer point would suffice for keeping the grounds together. Looking \
> > at the ARRL book on grounding and bonding, it appears that what I?m going to do \
> > is to install a ?perimeter ground.? 
> > Not quite -- it would be a perimeter ground if that #4 (yes, big enough) were \
> > connecting driven rods spaced at least 1.5 - 2x their length around the \
> > perimeter. 
> > Do you have the first or second edition of the book? Ward and I worked through \
> > some of the issues involved with situations like yours for the second edition. 
> > 73, Jim K9YC
> > 
> > 
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > 
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to w6jhb@me.com
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 23
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 21:52:28 -0700
> From: Walter Underwood <wunder@wunderwood.org>
> To: Reflector Elecraft <elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax
> Message-ID: <BC4BD388-45DA-4A57-960E-24BEDFA872CC@wunderwood.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=utf-8
> 
> Is the second edition published yet? ARRL shows First Edition, Fourth Printing.
> 
> http://www.arrl.org/shop/Grounding-and-Bonding-for-the-Radio-Amateur/
> 
> wunder
> K6WRU
> Walter Underwood
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
> 
> > On Aug 23, 2021, at 8:27 PM, Jim Brown <jim@audiosystemsgroup.com> wrote:
> > 
> > On 8/23/2021 6:42 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
> > > Per N.E.C. specs, I need to tie the ground system at the shack entrance to the \
> > > house utility ground - probably 150? or so from the coax entrance panel to that \
> > > Ufer spot. 
> > 
> > There's a bit more to it than that. In essence, more grounds are better and you \
> > can have as many as you want, but they must ALL be bonded together. That includes \
> > power, telco, CATV, shack, etc. 
> > My electrician said that a #4 solid copper wire running from the coax entrance \
> > panel to the Ufer point would suffice for keeping the grounds together. Looking \
> > at the ARRL book on grounding and bonding, it appears that what I?m going to do \
> > is to install a ?perimeter ground.? 
> > Not quite -- it would be a perimeter ground if that #4 (yes, big enough) were \
> > connecting driven rods spaced at least 1.5 - 2x their length around the \
> > perimeter. 
> > Do you have the first or second edition of the book? Ward and I worked through \
> > some of the issues involved with situations like yours for the second edition. 
> > 73, Jim K9YC
> > 
> > 
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > 
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to wunder@wunderwood.org
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 24
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2021 22:35:15 -0700
> From: Jim Brown <jim@audiosystemsgroup.com>
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax
> Message-ID:
> <b9e587ef-3b77-9f19-2e29-5e61b75fcc5f@audiosystemsgroup.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> On 8/23/2021 9:45 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
> > Folks - thanks for the input!
> > 
> > Jim - Not sure what version I?ve got - it doesn?t say, so perhaps it is first \
> > edition of the book. However it does have a few paragraphs on perimeter \
> > grounding, on pages 4.22 - 4.24. And yes, I had planned on a series of ground \
> > rods driven in and connected to the #4 wire along its path to the Ufer connection \
> > point.
> 
> I don't know if the second edition is out -- we finished over the winter.
> > 
> > You mentioned ?at least 1.5 - 2x their length" of the ground rod spacing. What \
> > would be the minimum spacing between rods? They are, after all, not the easiest \
> > things to ?push? into the ground.
> 
> That IS the minimum spacing. Most rods sold are 8 ft or so, so I'd 
> choose 16 ft spacing.
> > 
> > Luckily we?ve got no Telco line coming into the house, nor CATV - it is all fiber \
> > here.
> 
> I would hate to lose POTS -- we often lose power for long periods, and 
> when that goes, so does Comcast. And we have NO cell coverage, thanks to 
> the "Tin Hat Brigade."  I'm hoping I have enough of a view of the sky in 
> the clearing of our 200+ ft redwoods for StarLink to provide a viable 
> alternative.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 25
> Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2021 12:16:39 -0700
> From: Phil Kane <k2asp@kanafi.org>
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Ground Wire & Coax
> Message-ID: <4141b17a-1180-5cc9-3543-24aa72744e2f@kanafi.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> On 8/23/2021 9:45 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
> 
> > Luckily we?ve got no Telco line coming into the house, nor CATV - it is all fiber \
> > here.
> 
> Even more reason to have it Located.......ditto for your water, gas, and 
> electric services.
> 
> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
> 
> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 26
> Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2021 13:33:17 -0700
> From: <marvwheeler@nwlink.com>
> To: <Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> Subject: [Elecraft] KX3, PX3, KXPA00 for trade or sale.
> Message-ID: <000001d79927$45a2a420$d0e7ec60$@nwlink.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I have a complete KX3 station, as listed above, with side panels, covers,
> cables and heat sink  that is would like to trade or sale and end up with
> another K3S, The station is in excellent cosmetic condition and works at it
> should. Selling price for complete station $2650.00 including shipping to
> your U.S. location. If you are interested in working out a trade contact me.
> 
> 
> 
> Marv
> 
> KG7V
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> You must be a subscriber to post.
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
> 
> End of Elecraft Digest, Vol 208, Issue 13
> *****************************************
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